Is Silk Vegan? How Silk Is Actually Made

White silkworm cocoons in a shallow bowl beside a skein of undyed raw silk thread on a linen cloth

If you avoid animal products, silk is a fair thing to question. It does not look like leather or wool, and it is often described as a natural, plant-fed fiber, which can make it sound gentler than it is.

We sell silk, so we would rather you hear the plain version from us and decide for yourself.

The short answer: no, conventional silk is not vegan. It is made from the cocoons of silkworms, and in standard production the silkworm does not survive the process. If you follow a vegan lifestyle, silk is an animal product.

Where silk comes from

Silk is a protein fiber made by the larva of a moth. Most of the silk sold for bedding comes from one domesticated species, the mulberry silkworm, which has been raised by people for a very long time and eats only mulberry leaves.

When the larva is ready to become a moth, it spins a cocoon around itself. The cocoon is made from one continuous filament, held together by a natural gum called sericin. That single unbroken filament is what makes silk so smooth and so strong for its weight.

How silk is made, step by step

  1. Raising the silkworms. Moths lay eggs, the eggs hatch, and the larvae are fed fresh mulberry leaves for several weeks while they grow.
  2. Spinning. Each silkworm spins its cocoon over a few days.
  3. Stifling. The cocoons are treated with heat, usually steam or hot air, before the moth can emerge. This kills the pupa inside. It is done because a moth that breaks out of the cocoon cuts the filament into short pieces.
  4. Reeling. The cocoons are soaked in warm water to soften the sericin. The filament is found and unwound, and several filaments are combined into one thread.
  5. Weaving and finishing. The thread is woven into fabric, the remaining gum is washed out, and the silk is dyed and finished.

Step three is the reason silk is not considered vegan. We describe the rest of the process, from cocoon to finished fabric, on our page about how mulberry silk is made.

What about peace silk?

Peace silk, also called ahimsa silk, is made from cocoons that are collected after the moth has emerged. Because the filament is broken, the fiber is spun like cotton or wool instead of reeled. The fabric is usually a little more textured and less glossy, and it costs more to make.

Some people who avoid conventional silk are comfortable with peace silk. Many vegans are not, because it still depends on farming an animal for its fiber. Wild silks such as tussah raise the same question. There is no single answer here. It depends on where you draw your own line.

KINT silk is conventional mulberry silk. We do not sell peace silk, and we would not want you to assume otherwise.

Plant-based and synthetic alternatives

If silk is not for you, these are the fabrics people usually turn to for a smooth pillowcase or sheet.

Fabric What it is Good to know
Polyester satin Synthetic fiber in a satin weave Smooth and inexpensive, tends to hold heat
Bamboo viscose or lyocell Plant pulp processed into a soft fiber Soft and breathable, easy to wash
Cotton sateen Cotton in a satin-style weave Smooth for cotton, familiar care
Long-staple cotton Cotton with longer, finer fibers Crisp or silky depending on the weave, very durable

None of these is silk, and none feels exactly like it. Each one is a reasonable choice in its own right. We compare one of the most popular in silk and bamboo pillowcases side by side.

What we make without silk

Most of what KINT makes is silk or a silk blend. The one exception in our bedding is the 140s Cotton Jacquard Bedding Set, which is 100% long-staple cotton, a plant fiber with no silk in it. Our silk and cotton bedding still contains mulberry silk, so it is not a silk-free option.

Questions people ask

Is silk cruelty-free?

That term has no fixed meaning for fabric. In conventional silk production the pupa is killed inside the cocoon. If that matters to you, silk is not the right material.

Is silk vegetarian?

Opinions differ. Silk is not eaten, but an insect dies to make it, so many vegetarians choose to avoid it and others do not.

Is "vegan silk" real silk?

No. It is a marketing name for a plant-based or synthetic fabric made to look or feel like silk. Check the fiber content to see what it really is. Our guide on how to tell if silk is real covers what to look for on a label.

If you have read this and silk still fits how you live, our mulberry silk pillowcases are a simple place to start. If it does not, we think that is a perfectly good reason to choose something else.

Sources and further reading

Keep reading

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